A diagnosis of diabetes can be stressful for both the dog and its owner. If an owner is willing to put forth some time and effort in monitoring the dog's condition on a daily basis, a diabetic dog can live many normal, happy and healthy years.
Step1
Take the insulin out of the refrigerator.
Step2
Roll the vial of insulin gently between the palms of your hands. This warms the insulin, which makes the injection less painful for the dog.
Step3
Take the needle guard off of the syringe.
Step4
Turn the vial stopper side down.
Step5
Insert the needle of the syringe into the vial through the rubber stopper.
Step6
Flush any air out of the syringe. Pull the plunger back, draw in some insulin, and then push the plunger back in, allowing the air and insulin out of the needle and back into the vial. Repeat this step twice.
Step7
Extract the prescribed dose of insulin into the syringe from the upside down vial.
Step8
Thump the syringe gently to insure no bubbles are formed in the insulin dose.
Step9
Replace the needle guard over the needle.
Step10
Return the insulin vial to the refrigerator.
Administer the Insulin
Step1
Place your dog on a table, counter top or kneel on the floor next to your dog so you are at the same level.
Step2
Remove the needle guard from the needle.
Step3
Hold the needle with one hand and gently pick up a fold of the dog's skin with the opposite hand. Squeeze and pull the skin away from the dog's body to form the shape of a triangle or tent.
Step4
Inject the needle through the dog's skin near the base of the "tent" at about a 45 degree angle and press the plunger with your thumb. Be sure that the needle does not come out the other side of the skin.
Step5
Replace the needle guard and dispose of the needle in a puncture resistant container.
Step6
Reward your dog with a veterinarian approved treat and a big hug.
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Friday, September 12, 2008
Friday, August 29, 2008
How to Administer Insulin to a Cat
A diagnosis of diabetes can be stressful for both the cat and its owner. Diabetes is a treatable condition in cats. If an owner is willing to put forth some time and effort in monitoring the cat's condition on a daily basis, a diabetic cat may live many normal, happy and healthy years.
Step1
Take the insulin out of the refrigerator.
Step2
Roll the vial of insulin gently between the palms of your hands. This warms the insulin, which makes the injection less painful for the cat.
Step3
Take the needle guard off of the syringe.
Step4
Turn the vial stopper side down.
Step5
Insert the needle of the syringe into the vial through the rubber stopper.
Step6
Flush any air out of the syringe. Pull the plunger back, draw in some insulin, and then push the plunger back in, allowing the air and insulin out of the needle and back into the vial. Repeat this step twice.
Step7
Extract the prescribed dose of insulin into the syringe from the upside down vial.
Step8
Thump the syringe gently to insure no bubbles are formed in the insulin dose.
Step9
Replace the needle guard over the needle.
Step10
Return the vial of insulin to the refrigerator.
Administer the Insulin
Step1
Place your cat on a table or counter top so you are at the same level.
Step2
Remove the needle guard from the needle.
Step3
Hold the needle with one hand and gently pick up a fold of the cat's skin with the opposite hand. Squeeze and pull the cat's skin away from its body so it forms the shape of a triangle or tent.
Step4
Inject the needle through the cat's skin near the base of the "tent" at about a 45 degree angle and press the plunger with your thumb. Be sure that the needle does not come out the other side of the skin.
Step5
Replace the needle guard and dispose of the needle in a puncture resistant container.
Step6
Reward your cat with a veterinarian-approved treat and a scratch on the head.
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Step1
Take the insulin out of the refrigerator.
Step2
Roll the vial of insulin gently between the palms of your hands. This warms the insulin, which makes the injection less painful for the cat.
Step3
Take the needle guard off of the syringe.
Step4
Turn the vial stopper side down.
Step5
Insert the needle of the syringe into the vial through the rubber stopper.
Step6
Flush any air out of the syringe. Pull the plunger back, draw in some insulin, and then push the plunger back in, allowing the air and insulin out of the needle and back into the vial. Repeat this step twice.
Step7
Extract the prescribed dose of insulin into the syringe from the upside down vial.
Step8
Thump the syringe gently to insure no bubbles are formed in the insulin dose.
Step9
Replace the needle guard over the needle.
Step10
Return the vial of insulin to the refrigerator.
Administer the Insulin
Step1
Place your cat on a table or counter top so you are at the same level.
Step2
Remove the needle guard from the needle.
Step3
Hold the needle with one hand and gently pick up a fold of the cat's skin with the opposite hand. Squeeze and pull the cat's skin away from its body so it forms the shape of a triangle or tent.
Step4
Inject the needle through the cat's skin near the base of the "tent" at about a 45 degree angle and press the plunger with your thumb. Be sure that the needle does not come out the other side of the skin.
Step5
Replace the needle guard and dispose of the needle in a puncture resistant container.
Step6
Reward your cat with a veterinarian-approved treat and a scratch on the head.
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Saturday, August 23, 2008
How to Become a Snake Charmer
Many people fear snakes, but there are a select few who aspire to not only work with snakes but to be able to charm them into submission. If you possess the undeniable drive to be a snake charmer, keep reading. With a whole lot of knowledge and a little bit of magic, you too can charm the pants off a reptile.
Articles resource
Step1
Pick out your snake. You can't become a snake charmer unless you have a snake, so spend some time finding the perfect one. Picking one that is generally calm in demeanor will mean less work for you when it comes time to do your charming. Pick the snake up by the head and tail so that it can't bite you.
Step2
Keep your snake cool. The cooler your snake is, the more docile it will be. This is where the basket comes into play. Keep your snake in a cool, covered basket when not performing tricks so that it will remain calm and non-aggressive.
Step3
Feed your snake. A full snake is a happy snake, so keep its belly full and you'll decrease your chances of getting bitten.
Step4
Learn to play the Pungi. This Indian flute is a staple when it comes to becoming a snake charmer. You'll not only need to learn how to play, but you need to learn to play using circular breathing, which means without pauses or stops during the song.
Step5
Practice, practice, practice.
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Articles resource
Step1
Pick out your snake. You can't become a snake charmer unless you have a snake, so spend some time finding the perfect one. Picking one that is generally calm in demeanor will mean less work for you when it comes time to do your charming. Pick the snake up by the head and tail so that it can't bite you.
Step2
Keep your snake cool. The cooler your snake is, the more docile it will be. This is where the basket comes into play. Keep your snake in a cool, covered basket when not performing tricks so that it will remain calm and non-aggressive.
Step3
Feed your snake. A full snake is a happy snake, so keep its belly full and you'll decrease your chances of getting bitten.
Step4
Learn to play the Pungi. This Indian flute is a staple when it comes to becoming a snake charmer. You'll not only need to learn how to play, but you need to learn to play using circular breathing, which means without pauses or stops during the song.
Step5
Practice, practice, practice.
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Sunday, August 17, 2008
How to Become a Jockey
Racing horses is one of the most exhilarating and dangerous of the equestrian sports.
More articles......
Step1
Get a referral to work on the back side of a racetrack. You need a recommendation from either a trainer or an owner to get a job on the racetrack.
Step2
Begin your career "walking hots." This means you'll cool down hot horses that have just run or exercised. Walking hots is done from the ground.
Step3
Move up to grooming. Once you've established yourself on the racetrack, you can become a groom. Grooms are typically responsible for grooming three to four horses. The groom is responsible for making sure the horse is brushed, cleaned and ready to ride.
Step4
Pony racehorses: While seated on one horse, you hold on to the lead rope of the racehorse and trail him to the side. This gives the racehorse exercise and gets him used to being ponied, which is how the racehorse enters the racecourse.
Step5
Exercise racehorses. You finally get to ride the racehorse, but only for exercise. You'll be required to gallop the horse on the track for practice.
Step6
Compete in schooling races. These are practice races designed to teach new jockeys how to come out of the gate and race. Successful completion will get you an exercise license.
Step7
Realize that track stewards will judge you on your ability to ride while you compete in smaller races designed for exercise jockeys. The track stewards will critique your ability to handle the horse and to maintain safety among a group of horses on the racecourse.
Step8
Get your jockey's license from the racetrack. This license is valid at all racetracks.
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More articles......
Step1
Get a referral to work on the back side of a racetrack. You need a recommendation from either a trainer or an owner to get a job on the racetrack.
Step2
Begin your career "walking hots." This means you'll cool down hot horses that have just run or exercised. Walking hots is done from the ground.
Step3
Move up to grooming. Once you've established yourself on the racetrack, you can become a groom. Grooms are typically responsible for grooming three to four horses. The groom is responsible for making sure the horse is brushed, cleaned and ready to ride.
Step4
Pony racehorses: While seated on one horse, you hold on to the lead rope of the racehorse and trail him to the side. This gives the racehorse exercise and gets him used to being ponied, which is how the racehorse enters the racecourse.
Step5
Exercise racehorses. You finally get to ride the racehorse, but only for exercise. You'll be required to gallop the horse on the track for practice.
Step6
Compete in schooling races. These are practice races designed to teach new jockeys how to come out of the gate and race. Successful completion will get you an exercise license.
Step7
Realize that track stewards will judge you on your ability to ride while you compete in smaller races designed for exercise jockeys. The track stewards will critique your ability to handle the horse and to maintain safety among a group of horses on the racecourse.
Step8
Get your jockey's license from the racetrack. This license is valid at all racetracks.
Find Real Lovers
Thursday, August 14, 2008
How to Become a Horse Trainer
Being a horse trainer is rewarding, but it's also dangerous and time-consuming. You'll probably start off as an assistant to an established trainer. You'll begin by taking care of the horses, grooming, exercising and saddling; riding will come later, when you've proven your skills.
More articles......
Step1
Get as much experience as you can in the different areas of working with horses - starting (teaching a horse the basics), breaking (or gentling), breaking bad habits, and finishing.
Step2
Learn as much as you can about horses. You'll need to have in-depth knowledge of equine health, psychology and personality.
Step3
Ride, ride, ride. Ride as many different horses as you can: all types, all ages, all levels and all events.
Step4
Prepare to be hurt. It's hard to find a trainer who hasn't been kicked, stepped on, thrown or bitten. Working with horses is dangerous, even as a hobby.
Step5
Spend as much time as you can with horses. The more experience you have, the better you'll be.
Step6
Decide what type of horse training you want to specialize in: starting, rehabilitation (getting rid of bad habits), general all-purpose training, or specializing in one or several events.
Step7
Try to develop a strong show record in the area that you want to specialize in; this will help attract potential clients.
Step8
Be passionate about your career. If your heart isn't in it, the horses and the owners will sense it.
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More articles......
Step1
Get as much experience as you can in the different areas of working with horses - starting (teaching a horse the basics), breaking (or gentling), breaking bad habits, and finishing.
Step2
Learn as much as you can about horses. You'll need to have in-depth knowledge of equine health, psychology and personality.
Step3
Ride, ride, ride. Ride as many different horses as you can: all types, all ages, all levels and all events.
Step4
Prepare to be hurt. It's hard to find a trainer who hasn't been kicked, stepped on, thrown or bitten. Working with horses is dangerous, even as a hobby.
Step5
Spend as much time as you can with horses. The more experience you have, the better you'll be.
Step6
Decide what type of horse training you want to specialize in: starting, rehabilitation (getting rid of bad habits), general all-purpose training, or specializing in one or several events.
Step7
Try to develop a strong show record in the area that you want to specialize in; this will help attract potential clients.
Step8
Be passionate about your career. If your heart isn't in it, the horses and the owners will sense it.
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Tuesday, August 12, 2008
How to Become a Cat Lady
It s a slippery slope from cat lover to feline fanatic, but being a Cat Lady isn t all bad. You re never lonely, always needed, and how could anyone say no to all those pretty kitties in need of a home?
Step1
Adopt a needy kitty or two from an animal shelter, or invite in some strays.
Step2
Allow the kitties free reign over your home, but keep them inside only, with little separate dishes lined along the kitchen counters.
Step3
Take in every cat that shows up at your door, but don t bother to get them spayed or neutered. Have a "the more the merrier" attitude, and name them all from the Old Testament.
Step4
Increase the number of kitty litter boxes in your house. Have one in every room so they need to be changed less often.
Step5
Close all the windows in the house to retain that sweet feline smell.
Step6
Decrease the population of adult cats at the animal shelter by adopting a few more.
Step7
Sleep with all your cats in your bedroom.
Step8
Mew softly to yourself as you putter back and forth to the store for cat food. Eschew all human contact.
Find and buy tickets by places
Step1
Adopt a needy kitty or two from an animal shelter, or invite in some strays.
Step2
Allow the kitties free reign over your home, but keep them inside only, with little separate dishes lined along the kitchen counters.
Step3
Take in every cat that shows up at your door, but don t bother to get them spayed or neutered. Have a "the more the merrier" attitude, and name them all from the Old Testament.
Step4
Increase the number of kitty litter boxes in your house. Have one in every room so they need to be changed less often.
Step5
Close all the windows in the house to retain that sweet feline smell.
Step6
Decrease the population of adult cats at the animal shelter by adopting a few more.
Step7
Sleep with all your cats in your bedroom.
Step8
Mew softly to yourself as you putter back and forth to the store for cat food. Eschew all human contact.
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Sunday, August 10, 2008
How to Approach a Potbellied Pig
Like any pet, pigs don't respond positively if startled or rushed upon, whether by a familiar face or a stranger. For a warm, inviting encounter, consider the following approach.
Step1
Ensure that your pet pig has a safe, comforting and quiet place to rest, especially during the first week or so of getting to know you.
Step2
Stand back and away from your pig so he can see you clearly. Potbellied pigs have a different field of vision from ours.
Step3
Allow your pet to approach you on his own terms. Don't force the interaction - let your pig dictate all socializing at the speed he's comfortable with.
Step4
Talk softly and let him smell you.
Step5
Avoid startling the pig with sudden movements and noises. If startled, a potbellied pig could bite you.
Step6
Rub your pet's belly and the area behind his ears.
Step7
Avoid extending your fingers out for the pig to sniff. Because of poor eyesight, pigs will sometimes mistake fingers for food and bite them.
Step8
Refrain from picking up your pet potbellied pig. Besides being heavy - adult pigs can weigh up to 100 lbs. - pigs just don't like being lifted or restrained.
Step9
Look for signs of aggression, demonstrated through posturing or chomping or snapping of the mouth.
Step10
Introduce your pet pig to strangers and small groups gradually. Once he's used to meeting new faces, you can consider having larger groups around without startling him.
http://www.freewebtown.com/howtodothing/pets/3.htm#1
Step1
Ensure that your pet pig has a safe, comforting and quiet place to rest, especially during the first week or so of getting to know you.
Step2
Stand back and away from your pig so he can see you clearly. Potbellied pigs have a different field of vision from ours.
Step3
Allow your pet to approach you on his own terms. Don't force the interaction - let your pig dictate all socializing at the speed he's comfortable with.
Step4
Talk softly and let him smell you.
Step5
Avoid startling the pig with sudden movements and noises. If startled, a potbellied pig could bite you.
Step6
Rub your pet's belly and the area behind his ears.
Step7
Avoid extending your fingers out for the pig to sniff. Because of poor eyesight, pigs will sometimes mistake fingers for food and bite them.
Step8
Refrain from picking up your pet potbellied pig. Besides being heavy - adult pigs can weigh up to 100 lbs. - pigs just don't like being lifted or restrained.
Step9
Look for signs of aggression, demonstrated through posturing or chomping or snapping of the mouth.
Step10
Introduce your pet pig to strangers and small groups gradually. Once he's used to meeting new faces, you can consider having larger groups around without startling him.
http://www.freewebtown.com/howtodothing/pets/3.htm#1
Thursday, August 7, 2008
How to Adopt a Zoo Animal
Zoo adoption programs allow sponsors to pay for animals' care and feeding.
Step1
Contact your local zoo to see if it sponsors an adoption or foster feeder program.
Step2
Ask about adoption fees. They range from $20 to $5,000, depending on the animal you choose.
Step3
Ask about adoption privileges - from certificates and T-shirts to visits with your adopted animal.
Step4
Choose the zoo animal you wish to adopt. The price of adoption often goes up with the size of the animal.
Step5
Fill out an application to adopt an animal. Mail it or bring it to the zoo with your check.
Step6
Go visit your zoo animal and have fun.
http://www.freewebtown.com/howtodothing/pets/2.htm#2
Step1
Contact your local zoo to see if it sponsors an adoption or foster feeder program.
Step2
Ask about adoption fees. They range from $20 to $5,000, depending on the animal you choose.
Step3
Ask about adoption privileges - from certificates and T-shirts to visits with your adopted animal.
Step4
Choose the zoo animal you wish to adopt. The price of adoption often goes up with the size of the animal.
Step5
Fill out an application to adopt an animal. Mail it or bring it to the zoo with your check.
Step6
Go visit your zoo animal and have fun.
http://www.freewebtown.com/howtodothing/pets/2.htm#2
Sunday, August 3, 2008
How to Adopt a Healthy Cat From a Shelter
Thousands of healthy, unwanted cats are euthanized at animal shelters each month. Thankfully, thousands more are adopted by caring people just like you. If you are planning to adopt a cat from a shelter, follow the steps below to choose a healthy one.
Step1
Make an appointment with an adoption counselor. Calling ahead saves time, as shelters are busy places staffed mostly by volunteers.
Step2
Consult a veterinarian about the health issues of different breeds of cats. Some medical problems are more common in certain breeds.
Step3
Prepare a list of questions and bring it with you to the shelter.
Step4
Request a tour of the animal wards and exercise rooms. All areas should be clean, comfortable and odor-free - indicators of quality care.
Step5
Observe the cats available for adoption. Select an active one that shows no signs of respiratory disease, such as sneezing or watery eyes.
Step6
Ask if the cat has been examined by a veterinarian or animal technician.
Step7
Ask whether the cat has been tested for feline leukemia, vaccinated, treated for fleas and given worm medication.
Step8
Play with the cat and check that she has clean ears, healthy pink membranes in her mouth and no evidence of diarrhea under the tail.
Step9
Check the skin for flea debris or patches that are scaly, inflamed or lacking hair. These could indicate ringworm, which is treatable but contagious (to you and other pets).
Step10
Pay the adoption fee and consider making a donation. Most animal shelters are private, not-for-profit organizations, operating solely on donated funds.
Step11
Be prepared to leave the cat at the shelter an additional 24 hours. Most shelters require this waiting period to discourage impulsive adoptions.
Step12
Take the cat to a veterinarian soon after adoption. Follow the veterinarian's recommendations for completing the vaccination, worming and preventative health protocol
http://www.freewebtown.com/6-30/h/o/howtodothing/pets/1.htm#2
Step1
Make an appointment with an adoption counselor. Calling ahead saves time, as shelters are busy places staffed mostly by volunteers.
Step2
Consult a veterinarian about the health issues of different breeds of cats. Some medical problems are more common in certain breeds.
Step3
Prepare a list of questions and bring it with you to the shelter.
Step4
Request a tour of the animal wards and exercise rooms. All areas should be clean, comfortable and odor-free - indicators of quality care.
Step5
Observe the cats available for adoption. Select an active one that shows no signs of respiratory disease, such as sneezing or watery eyes.
Step6
Ask if the cat has been examined by a veterinarian or animal technician.
Step7
Ask whether the cat has been tested for feline leukemia, vaccinated, treated for fleas and given worm medication.
Step8
Play with the cat and check that she has clean ears, healthy pink membranes in her mouth and no evidence of diarrhea under the tail.
Step9
Check the skin for flea debris or patches that are scaly, inflamed or lacking hair. These could indicate ringworm, which is treatable but contagious (to you and other pets).
Step10
Pay the adoption fee and consider making a donation. Most animal shelters are private, not-for-profit organizations, operating solely on donated funds.
Step11
Be prepared to leave the cat at the shelter an additional 24 hours. Most shelters require this waiting period to discourage impulsive adoptions.
Step12
Take the cat to a veterinarian soon after adoption. Follow the veterinarian's recommendations for completing the vaccination, worming and preventative health protocol
http://www.freewebtown.com/6-30/h/o/howtodothing/pets/1.htm#2
Thursday, July 31, 2008
How to Train Your Dog for a Blind Retreive
The blind retreive is a matter of trust between the dog and the handler. The blind retreive is especially useful for tracking, go-backs, frisbee/ball catching, and directed jumping.
Step1
Teach your dog to retreive the dowel. Meanwhile, establish your dog's visibility limit (how far can the see distinctly?). This is usually done by putting the dowel further and further away from the dog and see the limit of where they go directly to it.
Step2
Place two dowels out, one just short of normal retreiving distance, and the second half that distance beyond it. Send the dog for the first dowel. Upon a successful retreival, re-line up the dog immediately and send them for the second dowel. Most dogs at this point will react in confusion (hey, wait. they didn't set out another object - I would've seen it). If the dog refuses the retreive, direct them to the dowel - even if it means walking the dog all the way and pointing to the dowel. Repeat this step until the dog retreives two dowels in succession.
Step3
Now the building process begins. Add more and more dowels, each 1/2 to full retreival distance beyond the previous dowel. What you are teaching the dog is that, "If I send you for an object, trust me - it's there. You just need to find it".
Step1
Teach your dog to retreive the dowel. Meanwhile, establish your dog's visibility limit (how far can the see distinctly?). This is usually done by putting the dowel further and further away from the dog and see the limit of where they go directly to it.
Step2
Place two dowels out, one just short of normal retreiving distance, and the second half that distance beyond it. Send the dog for the first dowel. Upon a successful retreival, re-line up the dog immediately and send them for the second dowel. Most dogs at this point will react in confusion (hey, wait. they didn't set out another object - I would've seen it). If the dog refuses the retreive, direct them to the dowel - even if it means walking the dog all the way and pointing to the dowel. Repeat this step until the dog retreives two dowels in succession.
Step3
Now the building process begins. Add more and more dowels, each 1/2 to full retreival distance beyond the previous dowel. What you are teaching the dog is that, "If I send you for an object, trust me - it's there. You just need to find it".
Wednesday, July 30, 2008
How to Prepare for a Foal's Delivery
Foaling is a very dangerous time for both the mare and the foal. It is important that the mare be attended by someone knowledgeable during the birth. Emergencies can crop up very quickly and need to be attended to immediately.
Step1
Have a good working relationship with your veterinarian. Make sure the mare has had all the requisite pre foaling vaccinations. Those are usually boostered 30 days before her expected due date.
Step2
Prepare your foaling kit. This should include several freshly laundered full size towels for drying the foal off. Baling twine to tie off the placenta. Mineral oil in case you need to lubricate your hand and arm before reaching in to reposition the foal. Thermometer. Iodine for dipping the navel. An empty 12cc syringe container can be used to hold the iodine up to the foal's navel. Vet wrap to wrap the mare's tail. Two enemas, one saline and one mineral oil.
Step3
Provide a large box stall with clean straw or suitable bedding. Inspect the stall for sharp edges and protrusions. Make sure the stall is solid all the way down to the floor. You don't want the foal getting lodged between a gap in the door or the wall.
Step4
Provide just enough lighting to allow for observation. Have a flashlight handy in case you lose power.
Step5
Observe mare for milk in the udder, wax on the teats and relaxed ligaments around tail-head. These signs indicate delivery preparation. You can use any of several types of milk testing kits to try to narrow down exactly when the mare will foal.
Step6
Observe whether mare is nervous, pacing, rising and lying down; this indicates that labor is imminent. She will also have lots of loose manure and will urinate frequently right beforehand.
Step1
Have a good working relationship with your veterinarian. Make sure the mare has had all the requisite pre foaling vaccinations. Those are usually boostered 30 days before her expected due date.
Step2
Prepare your foaling kit. This should include several freshly laundered full size towels for drying the foal off. Baling twine to tie off the placenta. Mineral oil in case you need to lubricate your hand and arm before reaching in to reposition the foal. Thermometer. Iodine for dipping the navel. An empty 12cc syringe container can be used to hold the iodine up to the foal's navel. Vet wrap to wrap the mare's tail. Two enemas, one saline and one mineral oil.
Step3
Provide a large box stall with clean straw or suitable bedding. Inspect the stall for sharp edges and protrusions. Make sure the stall is solid all the way down to the floor. You don't want the foal getting lodged between a gap in the door or the wall.
Step4
Provide just enough lighting to allow for observation. Have a flashlight handy in case you lose power.
Step5
Observe mare for milk in the udder, wax on the teats and relaxed ligaments around tail-head. These signs indicate delivery preparation. You can use any of several types of milk testing kits to try to narrow down exactly when the mare will foal.
Step6
Observe whether mare is nervous, pacing, rising and lying down; this indicates that labor is imminent. She will also have lots of loose manure and will urinate frequently right beforehand.
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